Favourite Tables

Tag: Oysters Oysters

Cornerstone_main

Cornerstone Hackney

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This was our fourth visit to Cornerstone so you might be wondering why we love it here so much. Well actually it’s very simple the fish dishes created by chef Tom Brown are amazing and the desserts by Kelly Cullen are delicious so when you match this along with the great friendly service the decision to keep coming back is very easy.

It was also, therefore, no surprise when they received yet another award meaning they are now the proud holders of 3 AA Rosettes. The surrounding area in Hackney Wick where the restaurant is situated is being developed all the time which surely can only benefit this place as well. It’s very easy to get to as its only a very short walk from the station and also close to the Olympic Village which in fact as it was a nice day is the route we took from Stratford. On our arrival we were given the usual friendly welcome just like our previous visits. Our table couldn’t have been better as it was right opposite the pass where Tom completes and makes sure each dish is perfect before it’s sent out. Our lunch started with a complimentary glass of bubbles courtesy of Tom. We were then given the menu which was full of fabulous new dishes to try as well as a couple of old favourites.

On our previous visits we’ve always ordered the entire menu so after deliberating if we could leave anything out only to remember how good they were before we decided to once again order everything. This decision brought a smile to the managers face as she remembered that we did this the last time.

We started with the most amazing Sourdough Toast with Netherend Farm Butter which was quickly followed by two selections of Oysters. The first is the original Pickled Oyster with Celery, Horseradish & Dill and the new Native Oyster with a Seaweed Hot Sauce.

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Once we finished the oysters we then ordered a fabulous bottle of Certosa an Italian Rose Wine from the Island of Capri which was a real delight and accompanied the remainder of the dishes nicely Next on the list was the first of stunning new dishes a fantastic Brill Tartare with Wild Garlic, Mushrooms & Egg Yolk. This was followed by Cured Gurnard with Grapes, Almonds & Sherry Vinegar. We finished this little section with a favourite the Mackerel Pate with Cider, Sea Purslane & heavenly Treacle Bread After enjoying a little break we were then treated to some fantastic St Austell Bay Mussels in a Cafe de Paris sauce just sublime especially when you come across a couple of beautiful Clams hidden at the bottom.

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Following this was another fabulous new dish of Fried Jerusalem Artichokes with Cod’s Roe & Hazelnuts before enjoying a couple of fabulous Hand Dived Scallops, Coral Butter & Lime a pure delight We then continued to another old favourite with a slight change the Potted Shrimp Crumpet now with Kohlrabi, Gherkins & Parsley but still amazing. This was followed by two more new dishes the first being a fabulous Roast Cornish Hake with Celeriac, Anchovy & Chilli. Then came the highlight of the day a truly stunning Whole Monkfish Tail with the famous Chicken Butter Sauce.

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If you come here even for just one dish then this is it.

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After enjoying the amazing dishes another rest was required. During this time manager then came over to ask if we’d like the cheese course or dessert. We looked at her and just smiled and she knew what was coming as we said you may now bring the rest. This is where the amazing Kelly Cullen takes over starting with a fabulous Cheese Course consisting of a Blue Cheese, Honey Cake, Figs & Walnuts a perfect combination. Now it was time for desserts and once again Kelly excelled herself with three absolute beauties. The first was a fantastic Sea Salt Praline Tart & Pecan simply amazing. The second was a stunning Pavlova with Rhubarb, Clotted Cream & Ginger. Then our last dessert was a fabulous Dark Chocolate Torte with Blood Orange & Creme Fraiche Ice Cream.

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We finished with a coffee and Petit Fours which brought to end another memorable lunch here at Cornerstone. Before we left it was nice to have a chat with Tom who really is such a nice person. I’d like to Thank Tom, Christian & Kelly for the amazing food plus thanks to the front of house team for their excellent service. Another plus is that the menu changes often which is great if you are local and are able to visit on a regular basis. So yes I would highly recommend a visit as you are really missing out if you haven’t been yet. I for one certainly won’t be leaving it too long before I return and try more of this restaurant’s amazing dishes 

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Wiltons_main

At the Chef’s Table with Daniel Kent of Wiltons

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Daniel joined Wiltons in 2011, having previously worked at some of London’s finest restaurants such as Le Café Anglais, Skylon and The Wolseley. He initially went to university with the idea that he would become a Restaurant Manager. However, upon graduating, he fell in love with cooking, having been previously inspired by the many Sunday lunches at his aunt’s house where she would put on a feast of local Yorkshire produce and sherry-laced trifle! He has a firm belief that use of great ingredients and an exceptional team behind him is the perfect recipe for a world-class establishment.  He has enjoyed re-introducing many of Wiltons classic dishes as well as showcasing many of his own creations.


 

 

Question: What would be your last dish (to eat) “the death row question”

Daniel: A cep risotto, it’s a classic but I absolutely love this dish.

Cep_risotto

Question: Before you chose to be a chef did you have another career in mind?

Daniel: I loved History at school and I had a brilliant teacher who really got me interested in it and I think it made me want to be a History teacher.  But then came the part-time job in the kitchen and I got the hospitality bug.

Question: Which restaurant would you like to go to? (that you haven’t had the opportunity to visit yet)

Daniel: Faviken in Sweden, the whole experience is so far away from what we do here it really appeals to me.

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Question: What do you think about negative reviews?

Daniel: I hate them! We have let the guest down, but you have to look at them and understand where we let them down, was it the cooking, the ambience or not understanding why they were visiting our restaurant and in turn, how do we make them feel comfortable as our guests. We have to make the reviews a tool to understand how we can improve.  We have a policy of not questioning the guest if they have made the wrong choice of wine or dish and we will go some way to replacing it if they let us know during the meal we are more than happy to correct it there and then.

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Question: If you received a call from The White House to say the President was in town and wanted a British Dinner Menu at Wiltons what would you feature?

Daniel:  We know now that President Trump is in love with American Food but I think we would have to bring him back to his ancestral roots with some amazing Scottish salmon and the amazing products we have in the United Kingdom,  be that the beef we use to make the consommé or the oysters that are paired with it.  I’m sure he has a sweet tooth as well so he won’t go wrong with our formidable Summer pudding…

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River Yealm oysters with jellied beef consommé and horseradish

Steamed Wild salmon with asparagus and watercress

Summer pudding the best of British products.

 

Question: What is your favourite dish on the current Wiltons menu/s that you re-introduced from the long history of the restaurant?

Daniel: The Cropwell Bishop twice baked soufflé is the dish that I reintroduced as it was on the menu in the past as a Souffle Monico and it is a dish that has really found a following with our regulars. We even put it on our private dining room menu as people have asked for it several times… I think it’s the balance of the cheeses we use the texture of the soufflé that seems to have the guests wanting more and even asking for the recipe!

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Question: If for one night you could be invited to cook alongside any Chef past or present who would that be and why?

Daniel: I would love to cook with Thomas Keller as I think he has a level of perfection that is inspiring and I love his use of using producers who are driven in their fields. I would love to talk to him about how he has trained so many talented chefs through his kitchens and how he uses his “on the pass moments” that he posts on Instagram to inspire his team and of course how I can replicate the infamous oyster and caviar dish.

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My Favourite Tables– Two restaurants I have visited and why?

 

Restaurant (1): J Sheekey’s it’s a little dinner treat for me and the wife before the theatre and I love that it gets me brownie points for the intimate and romantic feel of it.  @JSheekeyRest

 

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Restaurant (2): Noble Rot, I just love Lamb Conduit Street and how this restaurant has found its place here, brilliant food and wine, the table just by the fireplace in Winter is brilliant. @noblerotbar

 

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Jetty-Gallery

A day at the beach with Chef Lee Redman

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Favourite Tables talks to Chef Lee Redman of the newly opened The Jetty at Brighton’s Harbour Hotel for “Chef’s Table”

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FT: are you a born Chef?

Lee: it does feel like that! I’ve been in kitchens since the age of 13. Like most teenagers, I wanted more cash in my pocket, so took on a weekend job working in a local pub. Like a lot of chefs I talk to, I started as a pot washer and stuck at it… it must’ve been the £3.15 per hour! Then slowly I started learning how to prepare and cook (I remember endless amounts of peeling and sorting parsley!) Once, when the owners were away, the agency chef covering messed up and from then on I got more and more involved in the kitchen.

FT: How did thing progress for you?

Lee: I completed a three year course at a local college, 2 years studying an AVCE in Hospitality & Catering Industry, then a further year completing Level 3 NVQ Practical Cookery & Food Service. I moved from that first pub to a local bistro/restaurant and then to a local hotel. I landed my first Head Chef job at the very young age of 22 at a beautiful gastropub near Arundel and retained 1 Rosette, before moving on to London as it was always a wish to further my knowledge working there.

Here I started working at The Stafford Hotel  in St. James’s as Junior Sous. After three years moving to The Bluebird in Chelsea which is a 2 Rosette Brasserie, then on to Galvin at Windows  in the Park Lane Hilton which has 1 Michelin Star and 3 Rosette where I ran the the fish section.

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FT: Who has influenced or helped you along the way?

Lee: After a few years in London the Head Chef from The Stafford Hotel, Chef Mark Budd, approached me. We had worked really well together and our styles of cooking complemented one another. Mark asked me to come and work back in Sussex as his Senior Sous at Alexander House Hotel & Spa. Here I was given the opportunity to work across the kitchen and we took the Hotel from a 4 Star to 5 Star, and the restaurant to 3 AA Rosettes, whilst retaining 1 Rosette in the Brasserie

FT: Would you say you are settled in your style and how would you describe it?

Lee: I would say my approach to food is to always strive to get the best out of the ingredients, from sourcing the correct quality and as local as possible through to executing precisely on the plate. My style would have to be classic French / British with modern touches.  As to being settled, I will focus on the classics, however I am keen to learn new techniques and styles and will incorporate those that can help me deliver exciting seasonal dishes with great flavours to our customers.

FT: How did you find yourself working in Brighton?

Lee: I believe I have built a good reputation working within Hotel restaurants and was approached about the possible position of Head Chef for what would be a totally refurbished Brighton Hotel, which had me already interested.  When finding out the group was Harbour Hotels, it was literally a no brainer. The company is extremely well set up with good solid knowledge through all departments in all venues, award winning & great place for a chef. We have developed a great menu and I am lucky in having an incredibly talented brigade working with me. The Jetty has really achieved incredible results and we are getting full services every day and incredible customer feed back.

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FT: What are your favourite dishes to cook at home and in the restaurant?

Lee: That is a hard questions for any chef to answer because of using seasonal ingredients and what’s available……….You’re not going to let me away with that answer are you….

OK, If I’m cooking at home for my wife then it has to be my Beef Chilli and I add a few squares of dark chocolate (trust me!) It has to be good quality chocolate I use Valrhona

In the restaurant the best dishes are those when you don’t do too much to the signature ingredient. I love to use Hand Dived Scallops and my favourite dish is Scallop, oyster emulsion, oyster leaf, oyster foam, tempura cockles, razor clam, pickled kohlrabi, seaweed butter. It is great to eat and really keeps the freshness of the sea.

FT: now chef, where are your two favourite tables, the restaurants you like to visit when ever you can?

Lee: Locally I’ve been eating at one of the restaurants belonging to a small group called the Gingerman company, the Ginger Pig in Hove is a real favourite at the moment, great menu, lovely presentation and flavours with all locally sourced produce and clever usage of it.

When I get up to London then it’s Gilgamesh right by Camden Market. The presentation of the food is just brilliant and so fresh. As it’s Pan-Asian you can have dishes from across the region Sushi, Dim Sum, Tempura and Wok dishes

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FT: When we asked if you were a born chef you laughed, can we ask why…..

Lee: Ah you noticed.. I know many chefs would say they were inspired by their Grandmothers or Mothers and in a way my mum did get me interested in cooking, it was a survival thing………..(her cooking was terrible). please don’t send this to her!  But she did burn most things and then just flip it over and dish it up, sorry mum! So I was inspired to to become a good cook……my mum still tells me how to cook when I visit, thanks mum!

 

 

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